swimming swimming

WILD

swimming

FRANCE swimming WILD

Discover the most beautiful rivers, lakes and waterfalls of France Daniel Start

Wild Swimming France Discover the most beautiful rivers, lakes and waterfalls of France

First edition published in the United Kingdom in 2012 by Wild Things Publishing Ltd Bath, United Kingdom. Copyright © 2012 Daniel Start Series concept © 2007 - 2012 Daniel Start / Wild Swimming Ltd

Contents

The moral rights of the author have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, used in any form of advertising, sales promotion or publicity, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission in writing from the publishers. A catalogue record of this book is available from the British Library. ISBN-13: 978-0-9571573-0-9 ISBN-10: 0957157304

Swims by Region

4

Introduction6 Getting Started Swims at a Glance

8 10

Jura14 Central Alps

30

Alpes-Maritimes48 www.wildthingspublishing.co.uk

Corsica68

www.wildswimming.com

Haut Var and Verdon Vaucluse and Haute Provence

86 104

Ardèche116 Languedoc134 Cévennes156 Corbières and Roussillon

174

Pyrénées190 Lot, Célé and Aveyron

202

Dordogne220

To Tania, With heartfelt thanks for your love and support over the last two years

Loire and Normandy

236

Staying Safe and Legal

252

Swims by region

1

13 12 11

4

9 10

8

7

6

5

4

Corbières and Roussillon

106

Swim map and highlights

176

1-3

Cascades du Hérisson & des Combes 

19

57-60

Haut Vaucluse

109

121-123 The Orbieu & Nielle

179

4-5

Lac d’Ilay & the Upper Ain 

23

61-63

Haute Provence & Digne

113

124-126 Verdouble & the coast

183

6-7

Lac de Vouglans & the Valserine 

25

64-67

Lower Vaucluse & the coast

115

127-128 Rennes-les-Bains & hot springs

187

8-10

The Lison & the Loue 

29

129-130 Pyrénées Catalanes

189

Central Alps

7

Ardèche

Swim map and highlights

118

11

Pyrénées

Swim map and highlights

32

68-69

Lower Ardèche

121

Swim map and highlights

192

11-12

Lac d’Annecy & nearby 

35

70-72

Mid-Ardèche & Beaume

123

131-133 Pyrénées-Atlantiques

195

13-15

Parc National des Écrins & the Durance 39

73-76

The Chassezac

125

134-138 Hautes Pyrénées

197

16-18

Lac de Serre-Ponçon & du Sautet 

43

77-80

Haut Ardèche – Lignon & Bourges

129

139-141 Ariège

201

19-21

Parc Naturel Régional du Vercors 

45

81-83

Haut Ardèche – Loire & Allier

133

22-23

Drôme & Roanne 

47

Alpes-Maritimes

8

Languedoc

12

Lot, Célé and Aveyron

Swim map and highlights

204 207

Swim map and highlights

136

142-144 Lower Lot

Swim map and highlights

50

84-87

Lower Gard

139

145-147 Célé & Middle Lot

211

24-26

Clues of the Esteron 

53

88-89

Haut Gardon

141

148-150 Upper Lot

215

27-29

Near Grasse & Cannes 

57

90-93

The Cèze

145

151-153 Truyère & Aveyron

219

30-31

Around Sospel 

61

94-96

The Hérault

147

32-33

Vesubie to the mountains 

65

97-100

The Vis

151

34-36

River Var to the mountains

67

101-103 The Orb

155

Corsica

9

Cévennes

13

Dordogne

Swim map and highlights

222

154-155 Vézère and Dronne

225

156-158 Middle Dordogne

229

Swim map and highlights

70

Swim map and highlights

158

159-160 Upper Dordogne

231

37-39

Corte & the north

73

104-108 Middle Tarn

161

161-163 Ouysse & Le Mont-Dore

235

40-42

South & east of Corte 

77

109-111 Upper Tarn

163

43-45

Col de Bavella 

81

112-115

Tarn & Jonte

167

46-48

Porto & Galéria

85

116-118

Mont Aigoual

171

5 3

10

Swim map and highlights

4

2

Vaucluse and Haute Provence

16

3

1

6

Swim map and highlights

2

14

Jura

119-120 Bonheur and Dourbie

Haut Var and Verdon

173

14

Loire and Normandy

Swim map and highlights

238

164-166 Cher & Loir

241

167-169 Indre & Indrois

245

Swim map and highlights

88

170-172 Vienne, Louet & Sarthe

249

49-51

Haut Var & the Argens

91

173-176 Normandy

251

52-54

Lac de Ste-Croix & lower Verdon

97

55-56

Canyon du Verdon

101 5

Introduction Wild swimming is the traditional art of swimming in natural bathing pools, such as rivers, lakes and waterfalls, and France, which has them in abundance, is the wild swimmer’s paradise. With some of the most beautiful and diverse landscapes, as well as the cleanest waters in Europe, taking a dip is the essential way to stay cool in summer, and the highlight of any French holiday.

French river sports Canyoning Swimming, scrambling and abseiling down narrow canyons and waterfalls with helmet and wetsuit Hydrospeed Swimming down white-water rapids with the aid of a float and helmet Aqua randonnée A popular family pastime of simply exploring a river, part-swimming, part-scrambling, with aqua sandals and a waterproof daypack Canoeing One of the most popular outdoor pastimes for French family holidays and a wonderful way to scout out the best places for a picnic and swim

6

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The benefits of wild swimming are well documented – it’s great fun, it’s good for your health and it re-establishes our connection with nature. In rural France, people have always swum in rivers and there are over 1300 ‘official’ river beaches. Unlike the UK, most of France is just too far from the coast, and even if it wasn’t the options are limited. The Atlantic coast has a dangerous swell – great for surfing but not for swimming – and the Côte d’Azur is heavily developed along almost its whole length. If you haven’t done much travelling in France or ventured off the beaten track, then you are in for a real treat. Its rivers are so numerous that French départements are named after them and three major sets of mountains ensure a plentiful supply of crystal-clear water to keep them flowing, even in the hot regions of the South. On their journey down from the mountains, the rivers often carve beautiful gorges, pools and waterfalls, which make perfect swimming holes and beaches. Countless tracks lead to exquisite stretches of riverside, and with four times as much land area per person compared to the UK, this is a place where everyone can find their little bit of wilderness. Wild Swimming France focuses on the really spectacular parts of the country, with the majority of swims located in the southern half, where most people go on holiday. We begin our

journey in the hills of the Jura and then head south, exploring waterfall country and the great lakes of the Alps. Moving into the wild hills around Nice we enter into the land of ‘clues’ – white limestone canyons with giant jade-green plunge pools and tumbling waterfalls, and while some require canyoning equipment many of the best can be reached on foot. From here, rugged Corsica is just a short hop on the boat, and with plunge pools and soaring mountain spires every bit as beautiful as its legendary beaches, this must count as one of the most beautiful wild-swimming locations in France, if not on earth. Heading into Provence proper, the Verdon is the largest canyon in Europe and its lakes are perhaps the deepest shade of blue in the whole of France, while the waterfalls of Sillans-la-Cascade bring to mind the kind of tropical oases you might expect to find in Costa Rica rather than Europe. Towards Avignon, the land becomes more arid, but magical blue pools still remain, fed by underground springs, if you know where to look. Both the gorges of the Ardèche, which boasts the Pont d’Arc, and the river Gard, with its Roman aqueduct, are justly famous for canoeing and swimming. Yet few venture into their upper reaches and tributaries, where volcanic activity has produced a landscape of extraordinary arches and basalt columns. The Cévennes, where Robert Louis Stevenson travelled with his donkey and wolves still roam, is one of the wildest regions. Further south, the Languedoc and Corbières are hot, dry, winemaking regions that are well watered by the Hérault and Vis. These rivers gush out of great cave openings into enchanted fern-hung grottoes that conjure up scenes from legend and folklore. The Pyrenees are famous for their hot springs – of which only a few remain undeveloped – and for tranquil mountain tarns with rocky ledges for diving and islets to swim out to. Turning northwards, the valleys of the Aveyron, Lot and Dordogne, and their many beautiful tributaries, offer stunning cliff-side villages to swim beneath and plenty of delicious places for long lunches. Finally, the great Loire, with its fairytale castles and woodland lakes, is a surprisingly wild river – wide, empty, undeveloped and magnificent.

French swimming dictionary Est-ce qu’il y a un beau lieu de baignade en rivière ou lac près d’ici? Can you recommend a good river or lake swimming spot near here? Nager to swim Plonger/sauter to dive/jump Baignade au milieu naturel/ Baignade en pleine nature swimming in a natural setting/ swimming outdoors Baignade sauvage wild swimming Baignade en rivière river swimming Lieu de baignade swimming place Eau doux fresh water Marmite deeply eroded ‘pot’ or tub in rock (filled with water) Resurgence where water or a river emerges from underground Vasque/basin large pool or basin of water Cascade/saut waterfall

7

Getting started Ten ways to be wild and safe 1.

If you swim downstream of dams with hydroelectric plants, be aware of changing water levels.

2.

Don’t explore narrow gorges if thunderstorms are expected.

3.

Don’t swim in canals, urban rivers or stagnant lakes. Keep cuts and wounds covered with waterproof plasters if you are concerned about water quality.

4.

Never swim in flooded rivers and be cautious of water quality during droughts.

5.

Never swim alone and keep a constant watch on weak swimmers.

6.

Never jump into water you have not thoroughly checked for depth and obstructions.

7.

Always make sure you know how you will get out before you get in.

8.

Don’t get cold – warm up with exercise before a swim and put on warm clothes straight after.

9. Wear suitable footwear. 10. Wear sunscreen and don’t swim in the

middle of the day – it’s easy to forget how strong the sun is when you’re in the water.

Turn to pages 252–253 for more detailed information

8

xxx

France has fantastic water quality and great summer temperatures. A hot day is the perfect time to swim, but it can be exciting on rainy days, too. In the north of France, it can sometimes be wet and mild, and rivers near towns and dairy farms may not be reliably clean. In the south, especially in the national parks, weather and water quality tend to be excellent. Kit for families: You’ll feel more confident about exploring rivers if everyone is equipped with adequate footwear (old trainers, jelly shoes etc) and goggles –the basic equipment of aqua randonnée (see p.6). A regular surfing wetsuit or a sleeveless wetsuit top will help small children keep warm if you swim in colder water, such as mountain tarns or streams. Always pack towels (or simple sarongs), suntan lotion, sunhats and plastic bags for all your wet kit, and insect repellent is useful in woodland or for evening swims. Inflatables are fun for children but make sure they don’t drift away. A buoyancy aid (about £40) is a safer bet. Skinny-dipping: If you come across a magical pool on a walk it’s quite possible to swim without any kit. Wear your undies or go naked if it is secluded. If you have no towel, wipe most of the water off with your hands then sacrifice one item of clothing to dry yourself with, or travel with a small, light cotton sarong. Wild camping: Remember that this is illegal in France, and open fires are very dangerous during dry summers. If you do decide to camp out by the water, be discreet and invisible. Pitch late and take your tent down early. Leave absolutely no trace.

finding your way There are over 400 swimming locations in this book and each can be located using the overview maps, the directions and the 10-point latitude and longitude grid reference. Walk-in times are given, together with symbols to indicate campsites, places to eat, canoe or boat hire and telephone numbers. Abbreviations are given for: left and right (L and R); north, east south and west (N, E, S, W); dir and opp stand for direction and opposite. The grid reference is the simplest and most reliable way to find the place. Type it into Google or Bing maps – on your computer or phone – to zoom straight to the place and view aerial photography and road maps. Or enter it direct into your SatNav and be guided to the vicinity automatically. For those places far from a road you will also need to refer to the French Institut Géographique National (IGN) 1:25,000 topographical maps. You can view and print sections for free at Geoportail.fr. To find your own locations: If you are using detailed maps, look for bends in rivers, which create beaches and deeper sections; or head for areas above or below weirs (barrage), where pools can form. Any lake you find in a state forest (forêt domainiale marked as green with tree symbols in the Michelin road atlases) is likely to be accessible. Waterfalls are often marked with a straight black line on the IGN maps. You could also explore the main canoeing rivers of France. Where the water is deep enough for canoes it is often deep enough for swimming, too. The map Canoe-kayak en France: carte touristique (IGN, 2007) is an excellent resource. 9

Swims at a Glance

Waterside food Close to an auberge or recommended place to eat or buy picnic supplies 7c lac genin 146 marcilhac 20 chute de la druise 153b manjo café 41b the manganello 161 gouffre de st-sauveur 48b delta du fango 162 lac pavin 52 bauduen plage 155b moulin-de-rocherel 83a st-julien-des-chazes, 166c l avardin

10

xxx

Canoeing and Boating

Campsites

Hire a canoe, pedalo or punt, to help you explore and to carry the picnics

Superb sites set by the water with simple facilities and a laid-back attitude

29 lac de st-cassien 48b delta du fango 50 vallon sourn, argens 54 rue d’eau de st-maurin 68 pont d’arc 84 pont du gard 85 pont de collias

4a lac de narlay 9b ornans 14 la roche-de-rame 18 lac du sautet 37 gorges de la restonica 43a pont de gaglioli 68b the grand gour 69a les grottes

94 pont du diable 94a lac du salagou 108 la malène 143b bouziès 154 les tours 168d bréhémont 171 st-aubin-de-luigne

72 balazuc 78 gouffre de l’enfer 89d salendrinque 93 gorges de la cèze 95 st-etienne d’issensac 102d vieussan 106 les fayards 146c espagnac

Great for kids

Waterfalls

Mainly shallow and perfect for family fun

Dramatic cascades and wonderful natural jacuzzis

2a gorges de l’abîme 4 lac d’ilay 11b angon plage annecy 22a ste-croix 24b clue de pierrefeu 29 lac de st-cassien 50 vallon sourn, argens

1 cascades du hérisson 3b cascade de vulvoz 20 chute de la druise 24 clue d’aiglun 30 ruisseau de planfaé 32a cascade de piera 36 cascade de la lance

52 bauduen plage 57 lower toulourenc 58 upper toulourenc 85 pont de collias 92 bord de cèze 117 tarnon at florac 170b candes-st-martin

41 49 51 90 98 103 130

cascade des anglais sillans-la-cascade châteaudouble gorge cascade du sautadet cirque de navacelles gorges d’héric gorges du llech

11

Châteaux and history

Wild camping

Swim beneath great castles and enjoy the history of France from the water

Wonderful and wild locations for sleeping out by the water

10 miroir de scey 33b lac des merveilles 94 pont du diable 95 st-etienne d’issensac

xxx

6 16 42 87

lac de vouglans lac de serre-ponçon cavu & ste-lucie la baume, sanilhac

95 st-etienne d’issensac 136 les laquettes 159a le port 160d floirac

Skinny-dipping

Blue pools

Remote and beautiful locations where you’ll be tempted to swim au naturel

The most azure, emerald or aquamarine waters you’ll find this side of the Seychelles

6 lac de vouglans 7 pont de confort, semine 11 roc de chère, annecy 16 lac de serre-ponçon 24b clue de pierrefeu 30 ruisseau de planfaé 31b gorge de carleva 38 gorges du tavignano

13 24 25 26 43 44

45 gorges de la vacca 51 châteaudouble gorge 69 plage des templiers 81 freyssenet 87 la baume, sanilhac 116 cascade de tapoul 118 l’hort-de-dieu 134a l ac des hauts

ravin du couleau clue d’aiglun clue du riolan pont de la cerise gorges de fiumicelle cascades de purcaraccia

49 sillans-la-cascade 58 upper toulourenc 98a moulin de la foux 111 le-pont-de-montvert 127 fontaine des amours 161 gouffre de st-sauveur

Jumping

Canyons, arches and formations

Deep pools with great leaps. Take care!

Dramatic rock shapes and gorges that will leave you awe-struck

11 roc de chère, annecy 26 pont de la cerise 28 clue de st-auban 30b ravine de redebraus 52a le défens 52b la grande gorge 61 gorges de la méouge

12

126 gorges de galamus 125b cascades de ribaute 160 lacave 164 chenonceaux

68 78 80 90 98 118 124

pont d’arc gouffre de l’enfer jaujac, lignon cascade du sautadet cirque de navacelles l’hort-de-dieu gouffre de l’oeil doux

8a 24 25 26 28 32 51 55

source de la loue clue d’aiglun clue du riolan pont de la cerise clue de st-auban l’infernet, le suquet châteaudouble gorge le styx

56 le point sublime 56e haut jabron 57 lower toulourenc 68 pont d’arc 112 les détroits 114 rocher de champignon 121 ribaute, orbieu 131 gorges de kakuetta 13

Safety and Access streams, the water can be bracing. Swimming in cold water saps body heat fast so don’t stay in too long (20 minutes is ample). Shivering and teeth-chattering are the first stages of mild hypothermia, so get out of the water and warm up with a combination of warm, dry clothes and activity.

Like cycling, hill-walking, canoeing and many other outdoor activities, wild swimming has some inherent risks and dangers but with the right preparation and information you can stay very safe, without losing the sense of adventure.

Main risks Non-swimmers and children Take special care with children and non-swimmers near water. Even shallow water can suddenly deepen. If you, your children or your friends cannot swim, make sure you scout out the extent of the shallows, set clear boundaries and maintain constant supervision. Remember that even shallow sections of fast-flowing water can knock you off your feet. Be careful with inflatables: they can create a false sense of security and float off into deep sections or burst. Swimmers lacking confidence should always stay close to the shore. Slips, trips and falls It sounds obvious but this is the most likely hazard while clambering around in rivers and waterfalls. Never run or rush and wear plimsolls or jelly shoes with a rubber sole. If you enjoy more serious scrambling and climbing along rivers why not join an aqua randonnée or canyoning course? Cold water Summer swimming in southern France is rarely cold, but out of season, or in mountain lakes or 252

xxx

Jumping and diving Always check the depth of the water, even if you visit the same spot regularly. Depths can vary and new underwater obstructions – sand, rocks, branches and rubbish –may have been brought downstream. Never judge water depth by just looking. A broken neck from a diving accident could paralyse you for life. Cramps and solo-swimming Swimming cramp can occur in the calf or foot and tends to be caused by over-exertion, over-stretching and tiredness. Cramp, contrary to popular belief, is not more likely to happen after eating but being dehydrated, or a poor diet in general, can make you especially prone. If you get a leg cramp, shout for help, lie on your back and paddle back to shore with your arms. For these reasons swimming alone in deep water isn’t a great idea but, if you must, trail a float behind you on a cord. Weeds In slow, warm lowland rivers and lakes, weeds are quite easy to see. While one or two don’t present a problem, a spaghetti-like forest could entangle a swimmer’s legs, especially if they start thrashing about. Try to avoid weedy areas, but if you encounter some, don’t panic, just glide through them using your arms to paddle. Blue–green algae In lowland lakes polluted with fertilizers, algae can multiply after warm, wet weather, usually in late summer. This results in a powdery, green surface scum (the blooms) on the downwind side of a lake. It’s presence is obvious and bathing in it can bring on a skin rash, irritate your eyes, and make you sick if

you swallow the water. Find a part of the lake without blooms, or if there isn’t one, don’t swim. Currents Swimming with or against a current can be fun, just like swimming in seaside surf, but losing control and being carried downstream can be dangerous. In fast-flowing water always think about where you will be able to get out if you lose your footing. Identify your emergency exits before getting in and scout around for any downstream hazards (obstructions, waterfalls or weirs). In canyons, bear in mind that as the gorge narrows the water will deepen and increase in flow. Always explore canyons from the bottom up, so you can ensure there is a safe route back down again. Never enter a canyon if a thunderstorm is expected upstream. Flooding and dam releases France has a large number of hydroelectric dams. These need to vary their release rates in order to meet changing electricity demands and you will see very clear yellow EDF (Électricité de France) signs along the river where this is the case. In reality, flow rates are generally constant during the summer when electricity demand is highly predictable and many local people swim without concern. Changes in flow rates are usually pre-planned and canoe companies are often notified so have more information. Even if EDF do need to increase flow, changes are not tsunami-like – water levels will usually increase up to about 30cm over 15 minutes. The main advice is to avoid picnicking on river islands that could be cut off, and keep an eye on children playing close to the shore. For more information see Haut Var and Verdon, page 102

Baignade non surveillée Authorities recognise that people swim here, but trust them to bathe responsibly. Often they will sample water quality regularly and you can find details of over a thousand formally monitored sites such as these at Baignades. sante.gouv.fr Baignade interdite Swimming is prohibited by local councils in these areas but the ban is cheerfully ignored by local people and the sign tends to indicate that a good swimming place is nearby! As in the UK, with the rise in the litigation culture many councils have been forced to post these signs in all traditional swimming places to indemnify themselves against the risk of a claim for damages. Access and private property Public footpaths and rights of way tend to be marked by yellow or red waymarks. If you can access the bank no one is likely to stop you from swimming, apart from a grumpy angler. The general rule of thumb is that fisherman have access before 10am and after 6pm, and that canoeists and swimmers use the river during the daytime. Most national forest (forêt domainiale) is predominantly open access and in other areas you will find countless unmade, off-road dust tracks that are accessible by car or bike and which branch off through fields and woodlands to remote corners. Although the land is private to either side, there is generally an informal right of way along these routes. Note that wild camping – although tempting – is illegal. That said, it happens a lot more than in the UK. If you do want to camp wild, avoid farmland, never light fires, pitch late, rise early and take absolutely everything away with you.

Official signs Bathing designations seem to fall into one of three categories in France, though the vast majority of places have no designation at all. Baignade surveillée At these sites, lifeguards are provided and you can swim only when they are supervising the water. There are a wide number of artificial lakes and water sports centres (plans d’eau) which fall into this category, with amenities, car parking and areas marked out for sailing, swimming, canoeing etc. A handful feature in this book. 253

254

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255

Wild Swimming France Discover the most beautiful rivers, lakes and waterfalls of France Words and photos: Daniel Start Design and layout: Oliver Mann Editor: Anna Kruger Additional artwork: Owen Davis Marcus Freeman Proofreader: Candida Frith-Macdonald Production: Daniel Start Promotion: The Farley Partnership Published by: Wild Things Publishing Ltd Bath, United Kingdom Series concept: Wild Swimming Ltd Bath, United Kingdom www.wildswimming.com

Photographs All photographs © Daniel Start except Lac Salagou (Serge Sayn) and Lac de la Vène (Irving Bastin) Acknowledgements Thanks go to those travelled across France in mutual pursuit of the perfect plunge pool: Tania Pascoe, Ciaran Mundy, Petra Kjell, Fiona Smith, Jo Tinsley, Xavier Keeling, Retta Bowen, Jack Thurston, Ruby Wright, Nell Boase, Rachel Bright, the Ades family, Gemma Gottelier, Clelia Mingoia, Frances Hutchings, Jeremy Light and Tony, Marijka and Ivan Pascoe. Special thanks to Oliver Mann and Anna Kruger for production support. Thanks to Jonathan Knight and Punk Publishing Ltd (publishers of the first editions of Wild Swimming and Wild Swimming Coast) for their support to the Wild Swimming project. Further reading The following books and websites informed the field research and are highly recommended: White Water Massif Central: Fluffy’s guide to the friendly rivers of Southern France (Peter Knowles, 2002) Corse Paradis du Canyoning (Hubert Ayasse and Philippe Dubreuil, 2005) Randonnées le plus beaux lacs des Pyrénées (Jacques Jolfre, 2008) Gorges et Cascades: un plasir pour les yeux (Patrick Chollot, 2007) Canoe-kayak en France: carte touristique (IGN, 2007) Descente-canyon.com Any copy of this book, issued by the publisher as a paperback, is sold subject to the condition that it shall not, by way of trade or otherwise, be lent, resold, hired out or otherwise circulated, without the publisher’s prior consent, in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition including these words being imposed on the subsequent purchaser.

Distributed by: Central Books Ltd 99 Wallis Road, London , E9 5LN Tel 44 (0)845 458 9911 [email protected]

Wild Things Publishing Ltd [email protected]

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Health, Safety and Responsibility. Like any water-based or outdoor activity, wild-swimming has risks and can be dangerous. These are described more fully on pages 254–255. The locations featured in this book may be prone to flood, drought and other changes and while the author and publisher have gone to great lengths to ensure the accuracy of the information herein they will not be held legally or financially responsible for any accident, injury, loss or inconvenience sustained as a result of the information or advice contained in this book. Swimming, jumping, diving or any other activities at any of these locations is entirely at your own risk. If you are doubt about any information in this book, please seek further independent advice.