Plait and twist hair - Pearson Schools and FE Colleges

Unit GH13

Plait and twist hair

What you will learn: How to maintain effective and safe methods of working when plaiting and twisting hair Plaiting and twisting hair techniques How to provide aftercare advice

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Practical skills – Hairdressing

Is this statement fact or fiction? Cornrow plaiting originated in India. To check your answer see page 474.

Plaiting and twisting hair is an art and can take a long time to perfect. You will need a huge amount of practice of creating the five different looks necessary to gain this unit of your Level 2 qualification. This unit consists of using plaiting and twisting techniques to achieve a variety of different looks multiple cornrows, French plait, fishtail plait, two strand twists and flat twists. You will need to have a high level of manual dexterity to become competent at these techniques as many require the use of very small sections of hair being worked in a very intricate, methodical sequence.

Unit GH13 Plait and twist hair

At one time plaits were only seen on small children and were personified by the character Heidi in the 1970’s TV programme. Plaits and twists have become more fashionable lately due to high profile stars such as Kylie and Fergie (from the Black Eyed Peas) wearing a combination of plaits and twists within their hairstyles for their music videos and for major events like red carpet award ceremonies. The trend has also been widely used on catwalks during the unveiling of the new season’s fashion ranges and has made its way down to the High Street. The great advantage of plaits and twists is that they keep the hair away from the face so a plait around the front hairline is practical as well as providing a funky focal point to the hairstyle.

How to maintain effective and safe methods of working Preparing and protecting your client It is vital to the well-being of your client that you follow your salon’s rules for preparing and protecting your client during plaiting and twisting services. You must always consider the effects of the products you are using and their potential for harming your client. This will help you evaluate any risks and prevent accidents happening. Task 1 Gown client correctly for plaiting and twisting

Write down your salon’s requirements for client preparation for plaiting and twisting hair and keep in your portfolio for evidence.

Posture

Correct posture is essential whilst plaiting and twisting hair

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You must make sure your posture is good whilst plaiting and twisting hair, as these services require you to bend in awkward positions so that you can get in the correct position to plait and twist the hair really closely into the scalp. As hairdressers we stand for long periods of time and poor posture can lead to fatigue and more permanent risks of bodily injury, especially back and shoulder problems. Clients should be sat comfortably and squarely in the salon chair with both feet on the floor or footrest for even posture. If your client has her legs crossed, ask her politely to uncross them, or her plaits or twists may be unevenly positioned.

It is also very important to protect yourself from the occupational hazard of the skin complaint dermatitis, which has caused such severe skin problems for some hairdressers that they have had to change careers. If you always wear gloves when necessary, this will help prevent dermatitis happening to you.

Effective working methods As a salon employee or college trainee, you will be expected to use all products carefully and effectively. Safe and effective working methods will include the following: ● Minimising the wastage of products – always use the right amount of product for the individual client’s hair. Never overload the hair with plaiting and twisting products as the excess will drip off the hair onto the client and the floor, causing potential health and safety risks. Wastage of product is not cost effective to the salon and will result in the salon’s profits declining. ● Minimising the risk of cross-infection – during the consultation for plaiting and twisting hair, you will need to evaluate the condition of your client’s hair and scalp prior to the service. If you find any risk of cross-infection to yourself, your colleagues and other clients, you must not continue with the service. These would be classed as contraindications (see Facts about hair and skin, page 00). ● Making effective use of your working time – you should always make the best use of your time in the salon. If you were an employer paying an hourly rate, would you pay someone for wasting time? If you do not make the most effective use of your working day, you will not be deemed competent for your Level 2 qualification and a salon owner with a business to run will not want to employ you. ● Ensuring the use of clean resources – would you like to sit in a dirty salon or have dirty brushes or towels used on you? All clients have the right to know that the salon tools, equipment and resources used on them are totally clean and sterilised if necessary. A dirty salon will not attract or keep clientele. ● Minimising the risk of harm or injury to yourself and your clients – you and your salon have an obligation to your clients and visitors to ensure their safety. Your salon also has an obligation to you as an employee to ensure your safety whilst you are at work. All members of the salon team must make sure they know how to work safely to avoid accidents happening in the salon. This can be done by following all of the salon’s health and safety rules and regulations. Task 2 Write down what dermatitis is and explain how to avoid developing it whilst carrying out plaiting and twisting services.

Contact dermatitis Dermatitis

An inflammation or allergy of the skin, usually affecting the hands of hairdressers. It causes the hands to crack and bleed due to constantly being wet and coming into contact with certain chemicals. Drying hands thoroughly after shampooing, using a good barrier cream and always wearing gloves when touching chemicals will help to avoid this. Sometimes called contact dermatitis. Contraindication

The presence of a condition that prevents you from carrying out the service, for example skin sensitivities, history of previous allergic reaction to colour products, known allergies, skin disorders, incompatible products or medical advice, or instructions not to have this service. In this unit a contraindication would be the presence of traction alopecia (see page 307) or folliculitis.

Unit GH13

Fact or fiction?

Health and safety issues

Plait and twist hair

Introduction

Folliculitis

Inflammation of the hair follicles. This can occur when the hair is pulled tight into plaits or twists which opens the follicle slightly, allowing bacteria to enter. The follicle will then become infected and yellow pustules will form at the base of the follicle.

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Your working area must be kept clean and tidy at all times to prevent hazards and potential accidents. Always wipe up any spillages of water, plaiting and twisting products immediately to avoid slippery patches on the floor. Once you have finished with a piece of equipment, always put it away so you have as much space as possible to work in. Used towels should be placed immediately in a towel bin, so that it is obvious to staff and clients that they are ready for washing. Task 3 What would you consider to be contraindications to plaiting and twisting hair? List five contraindications and explain why they would prevent you from carrying out a plaiting or twisting service.

Unit GH13 Plait and twist hair

A worksheet for this task is provided on the CD-ROM for you to complete and add to your portfolio.

Task 4 How might wastage happen in your salon? How can you help to minimise wastage? Write down three methods and keep in your portfolio for evidence. A worksheet for this task is provided on the CD-ROM for you to complete and add to your portfolio.

Commercial timing It takes skill and accuracy to plait and twist hair perfectly, and you will need a great deal of practice before you become competent. As a Level 2 Hairdressing student, you have Performance Criteria (PCs) and range statements (Ranges) for plaiting and twisting to meet before your assessor can be sure you are competent. In addition to these PCs and Ranges, you also need to prove you can plait and twist the hair neatly and precisely in a commercially acceptable time.

Plaiting and twisting hair techniques Consultation and communication A vital part of this service, as always, is a thorough consultation. You need to use all the good communication skills you have learned to be as confident as possible when asking your client questions before and during the plaiting and twisting service. The plaiting or twisting style chosen must be completely clear to both you and your client so that the finished style has been agreed. You do not want to spend time and effort completing intricate plaits to be told when finished that the style is not what the client wanted! A client’s lifestyle can influence the choice of style when plaiting and twisting hair. If the client is an active sportsperson, a style which keeps the hair away from the face and that needs little maintenance (cornrows) may suit the client more than twists which may come loose/out as they are competing in a sports event. However, some plaiting or twisting styles which result in the hair being tightly secured to the scalp may not be suitable to certain employers.

Unit GH13

A clean and tidy working area helps you work efficiently and presents a good professional image to your client.

Working area

Tools for plaiting and twisting It is important to use the correct tools to achieve good results. When plaiting and twisting you need to have a good quality pintail or tail comb which will have fine teeth for sectioning and a pointed tail which will not scratch the scalp. Another tool which may help you is a postiche brush, which is a thin brush specifically for use during long hair work. It has narrow bristles and a pointed end (similar to a tail comb) which is good for sectioning. You will also need a wide-toothed comb and sectioning clips to secure hair out of the way whilst you are working.

Sectioning and securing Neat and precise (known as clean) sectioning is an important part of both plaiting and twisting services to ensure you work neatly and accurately and produce precise work. Even if your plaits and twists are perfect, if your sectioning is uneven your finished design will not been deemed competent. You must have a plan of the finished plaiting and twisting direction and design so that you can section cleanly and evenly. This is so you have a vision of the pattern and where you want the hair to go.

Plait and twist hair

Top tips

Practical skills – Hairdressing

Tools for plaiting and twisting – pintail comb, mini silicone bands and hair grips

When securing your plaits and twists you should never use normal elastic bands, as these will rip and tear the cuticle scales. You should only use bands for professional use such as covered elastics or mini silicone bands, which are specially designed to hold the hair securely but will also be kind to it at the same time. There are lots of different kinds of either covered elastic bands or silicone bands which are less abrasive to the cuticle scales when securing hair. Some stylists like to use pipe cleaners as they twist around and secure the ends of the hair without damaging it. Twists can be secured with grips, tiny jaw clips or bands depending on the look you are creating.

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The amount of hair your client has needs to be taken into account before plaiting or twisting. Sometimes the hair is too sparse for a particular style and this will need to be explained to your client. Also, if the client has lots of hair it will not only increase difficulty in sectioning but will also take longer for you to achieve the finished result.

Hair texture

Unit GH13 Plait and twist hair

The thickness or thinness of your client’s hair will have an effect on the finished plaiting or twisting style. Some hair textures are deceiving and the hair looks thicker than it actually is. Fine hair left long and loose can look quite normal in texture, but if you plait this type of hair it can look really thin and wispy. Thick hair can cause problems when sectioning, especially if you are doing really small and complex sectioning, as the thickness of the hair can get in your way. Try to be as dominant with the hair as you can (hold the hair with good tension and be as firm as you can without causing your client discomfort) and keep the hair you are not working with sectioned out of your way.

Head and face shape When assessing your client’s head and face shape you need to take into account any prominent features or shapes. For example, if a client has an excessively large nose you would not want to give them a full head of multiple cornrows as this will only emphasise the client’s nose. The idea is to try to maximise any good features or shapes and minimise the focus on any negative features.

Hair elasticity Assessing the hair’s elasticity is something you have learned about in Unit G7. (Go back to page 113 to refresh your memory if necessary.) The hair’s elasticity is important to this unit as any service that puts tension on the hair has the potential to break or snap delicate hair or hair with little elasticity. For this reason you should be wary of plaiting hair with tension or hair that you feel is weak, delicate or lacking in good elasticity. Some children’s hair is delicate as the protein of the hair (keratin) sometimes doesn’t harden fully until children reach their teenage years.

If your client has any scalp condition that is infectious (for example scabies, head lice, ringworm, impetigo) you must not proceed with the plaiting or twisting service as this will be putting you, your colleagues and the rest of the salon’s clients at risk of cross-infection. If your client has a condition that is not infectious but that can be unsightly, for example psoriasis in its dry state, then it may not be advisable to show the scalp by plaiting into multiple cornrows or by sectioning into small twists, which would make the scalp condition visible to all.

Tension

How firmly a mesh of hair is held during plaiting and twisting the hair. Tension should always be kept even, as uneven tension will produce uneven plaits or twists.

Desired look Magazines and style books are ideal visual aids to show your client before deciding on a chosen style. It also allows you to be confident in knowing the style the client has chosen is the same style you have in your mind to create. Sometimes clients are not aware of the correct names for styles or techniques, so make sure you are both positive about the intended style result.

Unit GH13

Hair density

Scalp condition

Controlling the hair when plaiting and twisting To ensure you produce even plaits and twists, it is important to maintain a comfortable and even tension whilst working. If your tension is too loose, the plaits and twists will be too loose and may fall out. However, if your tension is excessively tight you will cause pain to your client and may even cause traction alopecia. If a client comes into the salon and you notice broken hair around the hairline where the hair has been plaited, you should advise your client to have a break from plaiting so that the tension in this area is relieved. If you plait hair with this condition you may well contribute to the breakage and a worsening of the condition. The client may need to see her GP for a referral to a trichologist.

Plait and twist hair

Factors affecting plaiting and twisting

Practical skills – Hairdressing

Traction alopecia

Hair length

Task 5

The hair needs to be long enough to enable you to plait or twist it into a style. If the hair is not long enough it will be really difficult to create the style and the plaits or twists may fall out during the special occasion! Be honest with your client to avoid disappointment. If the hair is too long it may be too heavy to hold twists and they may also fall out. You would not want this to happen whilst your client is dancing at a special occasion ball or during the first dance at her wedding! Be honest with your client once you have assessed the viability of the chosen style.

Write down the meaning of traction alopecia and explain how this condition is caused.

Traction alopecia

Hair thinning or hair loss due to excessive tension on the hair follicle. This can be a result of wearing the hair in tight plaits or twists. The source of the tension needs to be removed and the client may need to be referred to a trichologist. Trichologist

A person who is qualified to diagnose and treat hair and scalp disorders and diseases.

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There are certain products developed especially for helping to control the hair whilst plaiting and twisting. These products also help to keep the hair in shape once the finished result has been achieved. You need to follow the manufacturer’s directions when applying these products so that you do not overload the hair, making it appear greasy or too hard and crispy. This will also ensure you use plaiting and twisting products cost effectively, which will mean better profits for your salon.



A French plait is a single inverted plait using all the client’s hair. 1



Products for plaiting and twisting are: ● Sprays – used before or after plaiting and twisting hair to keep the style in place. ● Serums – these are silicone-based products used before plaiting or twisting to smooth the cuticle scales when styling. ● Gels – strong liquid-based products used before plaiting or twisting hair which dry hard to keep hair in place.

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Plait and twist hair

Unit GH13 Plait and twist hair

Spray, serum and gel for plaiting and twisting

Step-by-step French plait

Unit GH13

Products for plaiting and twisting

Plaits and twists To be deemed competent in this unit you need to practise and create the looks below. Once you have practised and feel confident to produce the looks neatly and cleanly, you are ready for assessment. Fact or fiction?

Is this statement fact or fiction? Cornrow plaiting is also known as cane row. To check your answer see page 474. 5



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Multiple cornrows, lots of three-strand plaits which sit on top of their base. This is also known as a cane row.

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Twist out

Step-by-step fishtail plait

Step-by-step two-strand twist

A fishtail plait is achieved by crossing even sections of hair over each other to create a herringbone look.

In this style, the hair is twisted left over right, left over right until the twist is complete. This can be done on wet or dry hair and can be used before a twist out.



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A two-strand twist which is untwisted after it has dried.





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Task 6 Use the Internet or magazines to research plaiting and twisting styles and patterns. Use the images you find to create a visual aid to show clients the plaiting and twisting styles available. Try www.virtualhaircare.com and Hairdresser’s Journal as well as hairstyling magazines.

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Plait and twist hair

Unit GH13 Plait and twist hair

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Unit GH13





caption - tbc

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How to provide aftercare advice

Step-by-step flat twists In this style, the hair is rolled and twisted by hand flat to the scalp. 1



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In order to maintain the plaits or twists, it is important to give your client clear advice on suitable homecare products and their use. If your client goes home without knowing how to care for her plaits or twists, they are unlikely to last for the time generally expected. Anything rubbing or causing friction on the hair will have a detrimental (harmful) effect on plaits or twists.



Top tips

A satin or silky pillow case may help prolong the life of plaits or twists.

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Advise your client that a lot of hair may fall out once the plaits or twists are removed and that this is quite normal. The longer the plaits or twists have been in, the more hair will fall out. Explain that this is only natural hair fall which would have ended up in the client’s brush if the hair had not been in plaits or twists. Everyone loses between 80 and 100 hairs a day, and if these hairs are not able to fall out because they are stuck in a plait or twist, then you will see them all fall out once the plait or twist is removed. Always recommend homecare advice and products to your client so that she can maintain the hard work that you have carried out. For cane row plaits which may stay in the hair for weeks, it is advisable to recommend a light oil to keep the scalp moisturised. Your client may wish to shampoo the hair whilst in cane row plaits, and you should recommend light gentle shampooing movements using a moisturising shampoo to avoid drying the scalp.

Plait and twist hair

Unit GH13 Plait and twist hair

You should advise your client to be methodical about removing plaits and twists. Using a tail comb, always work from the points of the hair, undoing the plait and working up to the root. Use a wide-toothed comb to comb through the hair once all the plaits have been removed. It is advisable to carry out a deep conditioning treatment once the plaits or twists are removed to replace moisture and strengthen the cortex.

Unit GH13

To ensure the condition of the hair is maintained, it is important to give guidance on how to remove the plaits and twists. If your client is unaware of the correct procedure and rips out the bands securing the plaits and tries to pull the plait out from the root, this will not only cause knotting but will also be painful and damage the hair.

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Write down the types of products available in your salon for plaiting and twisting. State when and why you would use these products. Make a note of the manufacturers’ instructions on how to use these products economically. A worksheet for this task is provided on the CD-ROM for you to complete and add to your portfolio.

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Salon life

Check your knowledge

Unit GH13 Plait and twist hair

When I was training I was asked by a client to do multiple cornrow plaits. Although I could do cornrows easily, I was a bit concerned because the client’s hair looked quite fragile at the hairline. I asked the client if she had had problems with the hairline before and she said no, so I continued with the plaiting service. A couple of weeks later the client returned to the salon and said her hair had started to break around the hairline. When I looked properly at the client’s hairline, I could have cried. The hairline had receded right back and what was there was really wispy. I felt dreadful to have let this happen. I removed the plaits and carried out a deep penetrating conditioning treatment to help restore some protein and moisture to the hair. The client never returned to the salon and I still feel bad about plaiting her hair, as I should have said no to the plaits when I saw the hairline was weak. I will never make this mistake again!

Top tips

Never go against your instincts and always rely on your professionalism. If you don’t think you should carry out a service, state this to your client and fully explain the reasons why, including outlining the possible consequences should you carry out the service.

1 State what traction alopecia means. 2 Why is it important to minimise the risk of cross-infection and infestation when plaiting and twisting hair? a) So that you look good to the client b) To ensure that you do not pass on any infections or infestations to clients and colleagues c) So that you do pass on any infections or infestations to clients and colleagues d) So that you stay clean yourself 3 What are the potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair when plaiting and twisting? a) The client may lose hair through a condition called traction alopecia b) The client may moan at you for pulling too tight c) The client may not tip you if you pull too hard d) The client may lose hair through a condition called alopecia areata 4 Why should you section hair accurately when plaiting and twisting hair? 5 State three methods of securing plaits and twists.

Unit GH13

Joy’s story

The following questions will help you to check your understanding of this unit. The answers can be found on page 000.

Plait and twist hair

A fragile client



Practical skills – Hairdressing

6 Why is it important to use products economically when plaiting and twisting hair? 7 Why is it important to recommend homecare advice to your client after plaiting or twisting services? 8 Why is it important to give good advice to your client regarding removing the plaits or twists?

ASK THE EXPERT

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Q

Why do some clients’ hairlines become weak and break when in plaits?

A

This is due to excessive tension being placed on the hair shafts at the hairline. It can cause the hair to become weakened at the root, and if the pressure continues the hair will be pulled out and break off. It takes a long time for the hair to regenerate and therefore the hairline can look sparse for a considerable period.

9 How can your client’s lifestyle influence the choice of the style of the plaits or twists? 10 Why might there be lots of hair fall when the plaits or twists are removed?

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Unit GH13 Plait and twist hair 320

• Multiple cornrows – lots of three-strand plaits which sit on top of their base. This is also known as a cane row. • French plait – a single inverted plait using all the client’s hair. • Fishtail plait – a plait achieved by crossing even sections of hair over each other to create a herringbone look. • Two-strand twists – the hair is twisted left over right, left over right until the twist is complete. • Flat twists – the hair is rolled and twisted by hand flat to the scalp. You must also cover all the other range statements listed. You will be assessed on at least four occasions and each occasion must be for a different look.

Task mapping When you have completed the tasks in this unit, check the table below to see which Performance Criteria (purple), Range (red), Knowledge (green) and Key Skills (blue) you have covered within Unit GH13 to use as additional evidence within your portfolio. Task and page reference

Mapping to Performance Criteria, Range, Knowledge and Key Skills

1 (page 302)

Performance Criteria: 1f Range: − Knowledge: 1, 4 Key Skills: ((tbc))

2 (page 303)

Performance Criteria: 1b, 1f Range: − Knowledge: 3, 5, 6 Key Skills: ((tbc))

3 (page 304)

Performance Criteria: 1f, 1g Range: − Knowledge: 31 Key Skills: ((tbc))

4 (page 304)

Performance Criteria: 1f Range: − Knowledge: 27 Key Skills: ((tbc))

5 (page 307)

Performance Criteria: − Range: − Knowledge: 14, 15, 16, 17 Key Skills: ((tbc))

Performance Criteria: Practising 2a, 3a Range: 2a–e Knowledge: 19 Key Skills: ((tbc))

7 (page 313)

Performance Criteria: Practising 2g, 3a, 3b Range: Practising 4a Knowledge: 25, 26, 27, 28 Key Skills: ((tbc))

Unit GH13

When you have spent a number of hours practising each of the five different looks and you feel confident to create the styles specified, you are ready for assessment. You have to prove you can create all the plaits and twists in the range:

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Plait and twist hair

Getting ready for assessment

Practical skills – Hairdressing

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