Carpentras, Capital of Black Truffle

CARPENTRAS T R UF F LE

MONT Ventoux www.carpentras-ventoux.com www.ventoux-terroir.com

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SUMMARY

What is to be known about Truffle

page 3

Operations

page 5

Botanic

page 6

Market and Festival

page 7

Stays around the Truffle

page 8

Truffle and Gastronomy

page 10

Truffle,a specific vocabulary

page 13

Bibliography

page 14

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What is to be known about the black Truffle in Mont Ventoux … a Human History Theophrastus is certainly the first real commentator on the truffle about ut the truffle, 4 Philosophers, gourmets and scientists of the antique times used to write abo centuries before our era. “Daughter of thunderbolt, nature miracle, magnificent mystery”…All the authors throughout the ages celebrated it A few centuries later, Disco rides asserted that they were tuberous roots, and Plutarch put forward the hypothesis that truffles were produced by the fusion of three elements: lightning, combined with water and soil. The mysterious origin of these organisms drew Cicero’s attention, who considered them later as God's children. The famous naturalist Pliny whose opinion about mycology was respected until the end of the 18th century believed that truffles were callosities of the soil and miracles of nature. Others considered that they were organisms for the reproduction of insects or mineral products Owing to its rarity and a high price, it has always been the guest of the meals of Princes, Popes… Every century gave literature a text dedicated to the black diamond.

Truffle and scientific facts One century before the mycosis is phenomenon was known, Joseph Talon, a farmer from Groagnes, a small village in Vaucluse near Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt, grew rich by planting oaks instead of traditional crops, such as vine and cereals. Finally, by the early 19th century, when science was still unable to explain the nature of truffles, a farmer had set up their culture. The story is quite simple: He used acorns to reforest his fields. Several years later, he found truffles under the young oaks. He rapidly linked his plantation of oaks with the production of truffles. And after some testing period, he noted that this phenomenon was no coincidence. The secret of the ingenious farmer was soon discovered, because of his wealth. One of his cousins whose name was identical to the farmer's revealed the secret to the public. As a consequence, other farmers began producing truffles by sowing acorns. We should not forget this clever farmer who gave us the scientific explanation of the truffle's growing. As a result, the usual productions (grapes, fruit, cereals…) were replaced by oaks, which were more profitable.

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One of the most important characters in the truffle History is Auguste Rousseau: Rousseau: This shopkeeper who aroused experts’ interest was awarded during the Paris Universal Exhibition in 1855 for his splendid specimens of truffles that drew the attention of the whole world.

What is to be noticed is that the truffles were produced on his lands of Puits du Plan (south of Carpentras). Supported by a wide press campaign and by the administration, the reforestation by acorns of truffle oaks was enthusiastically adopted. Talon’s method was summarized by A. Gasparin’s famous aphorism “if you want truffles, sow acorns”: it was a successful simplification, sometimes source of unhappy failures. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, a lot of public and private initiatives led to the reforestation of hundreds of hectares. The production of truffles then knew its golden age. It reached 1,500 to 2,000 T. a year for the official market. It spread over 70 countries, most of which had only produced small quantities of truffles until then. What is amazing is that truffles had to be imported from Spain and Italy about 20 or 30 years earlier. Between the two World Wars, the production of truffles went through an important crisis due to the move of populations toward towns, to find jobs. The uncontrolled truffle crop led to a quick degradation of natural truffle production. Every year, spontaneous production of truffles has decreased, whereas the demand in developed countries has increased. That is why the culture of truffles has become a very interesting investment, the most profitable one according to the legal point of view in agriculture. Evolutions in microbiology and in forestry mycology widened the visual field of the culture of truffles and increased the probabilities to get productive plants of truffles. Progress in physical and chemical sterilization techniques have reduced cases of infection of the roots due to other mushrooms than truffles. The discovery of the mycorhized phenomenon has permitted to understand the link between truffles and some other plants. It has also made their symbiosis. The study of the soil where truffles naturally grow has also made the ecological need of truffles understandable and has avoided inappropriate reforestation in inadequate areas.

Black Truffle Production The production in France 1958-1970: 90 tons

1970-1980: 50 tons 1980-1990: 27 tons

Production today :

20 / 30 tons: intermediate quantity sold yearly on the national market 70% of national production comes from the South East (70% from Vaucluse).

1990-2000: 25 tons 30% comes from the South West, «Le Périgord» obtains 15% of the national production. The Comtat Venaissin supplies the 2/3 of the production in Vaucluse

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Botanic According to the survey carried out by Françoise Pontet of the development Department of the farming chamber of Vaucluse The truffle is an underground mushroom, belonging to the class of ascomycetes ( spores contained in “asques”), the vegetative system of which is made up of thin filament whose size is about five thousandths millimetres of diameter and very long. They weave inside the ground a thin network called “Mycelium”. The truffle is the fruit of this mycelium. To get fed, the mycelium forms an association with a host tree - called symbiosis -described by G. CHEVALIER (INRA Clermond-Ferrand) and J. GRENTE (Bull in New series FNPT — September 80) as follows. - The symbiotic association is based on reciprocal profits.

- The tree receives mineral elements extracted from the soil by the mushroom, better than the roots could do themselves. However it is to be noted that this process is not shown as far as the sturdiness of the tree or its foliage are concerned. - The mushroom uses the sugar and substances synthesised by the tree, without which it couldn’t live in its natural environment. As a result of this exchange, the vegetative development of the mycelium survives until it sets off its functions of reproduction which will lead to the forming, then to the maturation of carpophores, that is to say truffles.

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MARKET AND FESTIVAL

Truffle Market in Carpentras Every Friday morning, from the 21st of Novembe Novemberr to end of March

This market takes place from November to March, every Friday morning, in front of the Tourist Office. November: It is now the season for truffle that we call “Rabasse”, a soft Provençal name for this mushroom growing on the roots of oak trees. Groups of people sell and buy the “Black Diamond”; it looks like a dance of little bags and money, when producers and purchasers bargain.

What is unusual is the opening of each market: someone – a city hall employee – whistles in order to declare the market officially opened for producers and professional buyers. Then, deals begin and last as long as there are truffles to be exchanged. Professional market: at 9:30 am ( Hôtel-Dieu) Individual market: from 8:00 to 12:00 am ( in front of Tourist Office) Contact: Service Foire et Marché of Carpentras tel: +33(0)4 90 60 33 33

Christmas, Christmas, the starting of truffle season The 12th of December in Carpentras Truffle Day in Carpentras On the market place, in front of the tourist office. Christmas time is an ideal period to celebrate the famous Ventoux Black Diamond. With the presence of the “Disciples d'Escoffier” and other Provencal restaurants who enjoy fine food and propose cooking classes and several demonstrations, stream of the truffle society... It is time to taste truffles meals and to buy your Christmas presents! Contact: tourist Office - +33(0)4 90 63 00 78

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Summer time, market of the Tuber Aestivum (white truffle) Every Friday morning in Carpentras (from May to september) On the market place, in front of the tourist office. Every Friday morning, a small individual market is settled in front of the Tourist Office from 9:00 to 12:00 am dedicated to the savouring white truffle. Then, during summer time, you can discover truffle in the natural environment. A truffle hunter will explain to you his work and give some advice. Information to the tourist Office - +33 (0)4 90 63 00 78

www.carpentras-ventoux.com www.ventoux-terroir.com

November It’s time to look for the black truffle


To discover how the truffle grows Truffle seeker La Truffe du Mont Ventoux Contact : Eric JAUMARD La Quinsonne 84170 Monteux 04 90 66 82 21 fax 04 90 61 04 39

www.truffes-ventoux.com

Jean François Tourrette et Florent Robert Mr Jean-François TOURRETTE Grand’rue 84210 Venasque - Tel 06 18 11 32 03 /+33(0)4 90 66 03 71 Florent Robert - Quartier des Blayos - 84200 Gordes tel +33(0)4 90 72 11 60 / 06 18 11 32 03

Truffes Gravier 2036 Petites routes de Carpentras, 84210 Pernes les fontaines Tél 06 10 73 27 24

[email protected] http://perso.club-internet.fr/joel-gravier/accueil.html

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Ideas of stays around the Truffle Hotel Le Comtadin ***– ***– Best Western, Carpentras Take off to discover the tastes and fragrance of Provence....a charming hotel, a great restaurant and an excellent sommelier as your guide: ideal conditions to explore the hidden treasures of Mont Ventoux. Upon arrival, we give you the program, with lots of tips and information on local specialities, markets, shops and visits - 1 night in double room - Buffet breakfast - Truffle and wine dinner at the restaurant "Chez Serge" - Visit of the truffle market - Truffle lunch - Transport not included Price: Winter truffle: 2 days – 1 night 145 €/ pers in double room + hunting truffle 25€ from 4 persons. Summer truffle: 2 days – 1 night 125 €/ pers in double room Hôtel Le ComtadinComtadin- Best Western 65 bd A.Durand 84200 Carpentras

+33(0)4 90 67 75 00

www.lewww.le-comtadin.com

Safari Hotel ******- Carpentras With 29 rooms, Its restaurant Hisbiscus sublimates the produce of the moment, with its both modern and traditional cooking. Spa, hammer, massage table, relaxation. Stay around Truffles – double room: 219€ including 1 night for 2 pers/ 2 breakfast and 2 truffle meals (drinks not included) – from December to March. Stay truffle in junior suite: 256€ Safari HôtelHôtel- 1060 avenue Jean Henri Fabre 84200 Carpentras +33(0)4 90 63 35 35 www.safarihotel.fr

Stay truffle on a truffle truffle hunter bed and breakfast Ferme Le Viguier in Monieux Bed and Breakfast in a breeding farm in the Mont Ventoux area. Stay around truffle : - 2 persons including 1 night in double room, breakfast, discovering and hunting of truffle, truffle meal on place. From December to March Price : 200€ Contact : GAEC « Le Viguier » route de Méthamis 84390 Monieux +33 (0)4 90 64 04 83/ +33 (0)4 90 64 15 52

www.leviguier.com [email protected]

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La Truffe du Mont Ventoux in Monteux Bed and Breakfast in a truffle farm.

Stay around truffle : - 2 persons including 1 night in double room, breakfast, truffle and wine snack, disvovering day (hunting and tasting). Price: 300€/ 2 persons Contact : Eric JAUMARD La Quinsonne – 84170 Monteux +33 (0)4 90 66 82 21 www.truffes-ventoux.com

Museum: «Le Musée de la Truffe du Ventoux» Exhibitions, Picture, articles, photographies and visits, all year round. Musée de la Truffe du Ventoux Tél 04 90 64 16 67 [email protected] www.musee-delatruffeduventoux.com

Le Moustier 84390 Monieux Open in autumn- winter from Wednesday to Sunday from 2:00pm to 5:00pm Open in July and August from Wednesday to Sunday from 10:00am to 12:30 and from 2:30pm to 6:30pm Tasting and hunting from 8 persons: 5€/person

TRUFFLE AND GASTRONOMY

Restaurants Where to taste the black truffle during the season, from December to March In Carpentras CHEZ SERGE

90 rue Cottier

84200 Carpentras

Tél 04 90 63 2124 www.chez-serge.com

LA PETITE FONTAINE

pl du Cl Mouret

84200 Carpentras

Tél 04 90 60 77 83 www.la-petite-fontaine.fr

L’HIBISCUS

1060 ave J H Fabre

84200 Carpentras

Tél 04 90 63 35 35

LE GALUSHA

30 place de l’Horloge

84200 Carpentras

Tél 04 90 60 75 00

L’UNIVERS

PLACE A. BRIAND

84200 Carpentras

Tel 04 90 63 30 13

CAMILLE

Chemin de la Lègue

84200 84200 Carpentras

Tel 04 90 66 87 80

www.safarihotel.fr

www.camillerestaurant.fr

Around Carpentras L’Auberge du Beaucet 29 rue Coste Claude

84210 Le Beaucet

Tel 04 90 66 10 82

Le Dolium

84190 Beaumes de venise

www.aubergedubeaucet.fr

228 route de Carpentras

Tel 04 90 12 80 00

www.dolium-restaurant.com

L’Eloge

route de vaison la Romaine Romaine

84190 Vacqueyras

Tel 04 90 62 64 81 www.restaurant-leloge.fr

Le Gajuléa

201 cours Louise Raymonde 84330 Le Barroux

Tel 04 90 62 36 94 www.gajulea.fr

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Truffle cooking workshop Michel Philibert Maître cuisinier de France, restaurant Le Gajuléa - Le Barroux In January and February, one Thursday per month, Michel Philibert organises some cooking workshops for 4 or 5 persons. Classes take place from 5pm to 6.30pm with a meal or aperitif. Meals are elaborated around Provence products. Cooking classes 200€ per person with meal and wine (on booking). Restaurant le Gajuléa Cous Louise Raymond 84330 le Barroux tél +33(0)4 90 62 36 94

[email protected] www.gajulea.fr

Special evening around “Truffles and wines” Restaurant chez Serge

During winter time (January to March), on Thursday evenings, Serge imagines for you a special evening around «Truffles and Wines». Degustation (with the wine makers). First course, main course, cheese and dessert - 87€ included wine. 90 rue cottier 84200 Carpentras Tél 04 90 63 21 24

www.chez-serge.com

TRUFFLE AND GASTRONOMY Terra Ventoux WineryWinery- Cuvee «Terre de Truffes» Truffes» This cuvee comes from a selection of our best vineyards. Over 25 year-old wines. 50% Syrah and 50% Grenache. A rich wine with silky and elegant tannins. Perfect with red meat (beef ribs) and truffle-based dishes. Truffles, wine and cheese tasting: come to the cellar to discover the secrets of the black or the seasonal truffle in a relax atmosphere combined with a tasting of the TerraVentoux wines. Contact :

Cave

Terra

Ventoux

84570

Villes

sur

Auzon

04

90

61

80

07

infos@cave-

terraventoux.com Products including black truffles Dominique and Eric Jaumard are truffle producers and propose visitors to discover how to look for the truffle in a natural environment. They sell above all «Tuber melanosporum» They also propose various products including truffle (oil, honey, terrine,)

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«Conserves de truffes noires entières, brisures de truffes, jus de truffe, vinaigre de cidre arôme truffe noire, miel d’acacia truffé, terrines truffées, huile d’olive et arôme truffe noire…» Contact : La Truffe du Ventoux La Quinsonne 84170 Monteux 04 90 66 82 21 www.truffes-

ventoux.com

Delicious cheese with truffles Claudine Vigier, one of the best cheese maker in France, creates different cheese specialties around truffle like “camembert forestier aux truffes et champignons, vacherin truffé…” Contact: Fromagerie du Comtat – Claudine Vigier – 23 place Maurice Charretier 84200 Carpentras Tel 04 90 60 00 17 [email protected]

«Nougat» Nougat» Truffles Nougat truffle is a new speciality from the Silvain brothers' shop in Saint Didier. They make nougat (honey, olive, truffle...) according to the tradition and innovation. Comptoir des douceurs – pl. de la poste – 84210 Saint Didier - +33 (0)4 90 66 09 57 www.nougat-silvain-freres.fr

TRUFFLE PARTNERS

* Association Ventoux Truffles et terroirs Its purpose is to promote the black truffle in winter «tuber melanosporum» and the white truffle «Tuber Aestivum» in summer as well as local products and wines. Ventoux Truffles et Terroir participates to the truffle market, to the festival of the black truffle in February and to all the other events related to gastronomy Contact: Alexandre Dezordi Appellation AOC VENTOUX 04 90 63 36 50

* L’Amicale de la Truffe Passion de Carpentras Some restaurants of Carpentras, all in love with the “Black diamond”, have joined together to develop and promote the black Truffle in collaboration with the Brotherhood for the Mount Ventoux and Comtat Venaissin Truffle. Contact : Charles Cazeaux 04 90 63 03 15

[email protected]

• ODG Ventoux Wines Its purpose is to promote the AOC Ventoux wines by different ways. Organization of events. 388 allée J.Jaurès CS20212 84206 Carpentras Cedex

www.aoc-ventoux.com

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Truffle…A Specific Vocabulary

«Caver»: truffle hunting «La gléba»: truffle flesh «Musquée»: truffle whose taste is so strong that the truffle cannot be sold «Mycélium»: part of the mushrooms «Mycorhize» : association between a mushroom and the roots of a tree (oaks, hazels..) «Péridum.»: truffle external surface «Rabasse»: Provençal name of the truffle «Rabassaïre» ou «rabassier»: truffle-hunter «Symbiote»: The host tree which can receive mycorhizas on its roots.

«Tuber melanosporum«: Black diamond, also known as Truffle of Périgord «Truffière»: places where truffles can be found «Truffum rufum»: a grey-to- red colored truffle called «dog’s nose» with no cooking interest

Bibliography

French literature «Les Truffes du Ventoux» une histoire millénaire de la Confrérie de la Truffe du Mont Ventoux et du Comtat Venaissin- Editions A. Barthélémy- Avignon «La perle noire du Comtat» de Pierre Julian, aux Editions du Nombre d’or «La truffe culte et culture» de Christian Tortel, aux Editions Annine-Ediculture «Guide pratique de la trufficulture» de Jean Pacioni, aux Editions de Vecchi «Les vendredis de Carpentras» de Michèle de La Pradelle, aux Editions Fayard

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«La serre aux truffes» de Pierre Sogno, aux Editions Calman-Lévy «Des truffes en général et de la rabasse en particulier» de Jean-Marie Rocchia, aux Editions Barthélêmy «Monsieur le Maire, les truffes et le Parisien» de Jean-Marie Rocchia,aux Editions Barthélémy «La truffe» par Michel Giraud (C.T.LF.L.) «Bilan de la filière truffe en France» par Michel Courvoisier (C.T.I.F.L.) «La route de la truffe en Vaucluse», édition 2001 «Le trufficulteur français», revue professionnelle

Web Sites dedicated to truffles

www.truffes.org : website of the«Amis de la Truffe et du Terroir Comtadin» www.provenceguide.com : website of the department of the Vaucluse with some pages dedicated to the black diamond

www.ville-carpentras.fr : website of the city of Carpentras

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